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Spring Gardening:

• Starting Seeds Indoors
• Spring Cleaning - Your Early Spring "TO DO" List
• Spring has Sprung - Your Spring "TO DO" List
• Spring Bulbs - The What, When, and How

• Composting - Getting down to paydirt (by Enviroment Canada)
• Gardening with Annuals
• Gardening with Perennials
• A Word on Watering
• Hummingbird Garden
  

• Garden Safety
• How to plant a tree (an article by Natural Resources Canada - Canadian Forest Service)
• Tips on care for damaged trees (an article by Natural Resources Canada - Canadian Forest Service)

• Fall Planting of Spring Bulbs - The What, When, and How

• 12 Easy steps to get your lawn off drugs (by Enviroment Canada)

• There are currently no articles in this section - Please check back soon.
• (See the Tools & Supplies page for "How to keep your garden tools clean" )
• (See the Tools Shopping page for info on what to look for when shopping for garden tools)

• Pesticides - Natural Alternatives
• Trade Aphids for Ladybugs
• Emerald Ash Borer - Agrilus planipennis (by The Canadian Food Inspection Agency)
• Friendly Pesticides (by Natural Resources Canada)
• Herbicides - Natural Alternatives

What you will need:

1. Seeds of your choice
2. Small peat pots/cell packs/seed starter kit (I use Carefree Jiffy Greenhouse - fantastically easy to use - no mix required)
3. Seed starter mix or soil-less starter mix
4. A large mixing bowl or container
5. Plastic wrap/sandwich bags
6. Vermiculite (optional, but does improve your chances at success)
7. A spritz bottle

If using separate pots and mix, dampen the starter mix in the bowl using the spritz bottle and luke warm water. Make sure all mix is evenly damp (NOT wet).

• Fill seed pots with mix and tap container down on table top to settle the mix - press very lightly, mix should be firmly in place, not packed in tightly. Always use new mix to avoid fungus' known as Damping-off Disease.
  If using a starter kit fill the tray with water according to the directions and wait until all peat discs have swollen to full size, then remove any left over water in the tray.
• Plant seeds shallowly and/or according to each seed's requirements. Tiny seeds can be sprinkled on top (and thinned out later after sprouting).
• Covertop of planting with a thin layer of vermiculite - this will aid in drainage at the soil level and discourage rot.
• Water by using spritz bottle and just moisten the top of the soil - don't saturate it. It should be like a moist sponge - not sopping.
• Cover pots with plastic wrap in a tray, or individually with sandwich bags until they germinate, then remove the wrap/bags.
  If using a starter kit, cover with tray lid until germination, then either open vents wide or remove lid altogether.
• Only water pots/seedlings when soil starts to get dry. Keeping them TOO wet will cause them to rot. Keep seeds/seedlings at room temperature (20-24 degrees C/70-75 degrees F). Thin out multiple seedlings by snipping off the weakest, leaving the one strongest.
• 6 to 8 weeks after germination (or when your seedlings have grown their second set of true leaves) your seedlings should be strong and healthy enough to start what is called "hardening off". This is basically getting the plants accustomed to the outdoors. Take the plants outside everyday to a warm sheltered location. Keep them sufficiently moist during this phase. For the first day or two, give them half a day, then a little more, then a little more until they are used to being outdoors. They are then ready to be gently transplanted into the garden. With any luck, they will all grow into beautiful lush additions to your garden.

Happy Seeding.

Spring Cleaning - Your Early Spring "TO DO" List

You've got cabin fever, a bluish hue, you obsessively watch for the snowdrops to pop up, and you're literally itching to get outside and play in the mud. You won't have to wait much longer. Here's a general "TO DO" list of early Spring cleaning jobs to get you going.

• As soon as the threat of that last St. Patrick's Day snowstorm has gone and the grass isn't a sopping mess of muck, a good first raking should be done to get up all the dead growth/thatch, winter debris of twigs and leaves and so forth. This also loosens and aerates the earth to promote new grass growth.
• Re-seeding the lawn to any severe bare patches can be done in early Spring. Make sure to rake up well the earth in these spots. Mix a few handfuls of quality grass seed to a good shovelful of soil and rake it down lightly. Cover lightly with hay if pet or bird disturbances are frequent. Keep moist daily. Gently remove hay once grass has sprouted and has a hold. Wait until length is approximately two inches before mowing.
• Cut back any of last year's growth on shrubs and perennials, and replant as soon as possible any that may have been pushed out of the ground by the winter's freeze.
• Get all your edging cleaned up now while you have the time. Once things warm up you'll have enough on your plate.
• Clean up your composters and storage areas/sheds/garages and get them ready for the season.
• Go seed shopping and get your indoor forcing started.
  
  It's been a long winter--too long--and just like every year, we can't wait to get out there. Cheers to the new season.
  

• Dormant Oil Spray application (if you believe in such products) or a more natural alternative wherever needed, such as certain fruit and flowering trees and shrubs that are susceptible to pests like scale. It is best to do this before the buds have actually burst out into leaves - when temps are between 10 and 20 degrees Celsius (50-70 F).
• Give your garden beds a once over, removing any garbage and anxious weeds, and cutting back any perennials dead overgrowth from last year.
• Clean up about half of your garden bed's winter mulch (mulched leaves) and then help improve the soil by turning the other half of the winter mulch in, as well as adding some additional top soil and compost. Be careful working around sprouting perennials and shrubs. I also use peat and bone meal in prepping my beds if needed.
• It's time to give your lawns a shot of weed and feed (if you believe in such products). Get a good spreader and follow the instructions on the weed and feed to the letter to avoid burn spots. Depending on what kind of mix you get, don't forget to put of signs if necessary to alert people not to let their kids or pets on the grass (for their own safety).
• Scrub clean all planters, pots, and containers (disinfect with very mild bleach/water solution if needed - 1 tbsp bleach to every 3 cups water).
  Harden Off your indoor started seedlings and then transplant them to their permanent homes, whether the garden bed or in containers.

Spring bulbs (aka Fall Bulbs) aren't just Tulips, Daffodils, and Crocuses. There are so many gorgeous Spring flowering bulbs available it boggles the mind (Anemone, Grecian Windflower at left). The question is, what kind of bulbs should you get, when and how do you plant them, where would they look best, and when will I get to see them bloom? We can answer those questions for you.

Composting is easy. You don't need any special knowledge or equipment, and it takes only a little extra effort to collect your wastes and establish an active compost pile. Once you've got it going, it just about takes care of itself.

How composting works:

In nature, organic wastes are broken down through a combination of biological and chemical processes. Biological agents like worms, insects, fungi, bacteria and other micro-organisms "chew up" the materials, which are further transformed by oxidation (exposure to air), reduction and hydrolysis (exposure to water).

Composting recipe:

For successful composting, you need:

• The right amount of water and air to keep the biological and chemical processes functioning.
• The right temperature. Ever notice how quickly things go 'bad' in warm - weather? For the purposes of composting, the warmer it gets, the better. In a cool environment, the composting process slows down. The internal temperature of a compost pile is also important. When the process of decomposition is at its peak, the compost will tend to generate quite a bit of heat. In a sense it's 'cooking'.
• The right C:N ratio. This is the proportion of carbon to nitrogen in your compost unit. This ratio will affect the speed of decomposition. Ideally, your C:N ratio should be thirty to one. Grass clippings, plant trimmings and kitchen scraps are high in nitrogen. Sawdust, straw, wood chips and dry leaves are high in carbon. A mixture of kitchen and yard waste should give you close to the ideal ratio.
• The right container you should use is a compost unit. You can build your own or buy one from your local hardware store or garden supply centre. Some municipalities offer composters at a special price, to encourage their residents to use them.

Building a composter:

Building your own composter will allow you to design a unit to suit your specific needs. A composter can be made of wood, concrete blocks, wire mesh or almost any material you have available.

The three most essential features in a composter are:

1. A lid that protects the pile from rain and snow and allows you to control how much moisture gets in.
2. Holes or vents to allow air circulation.
3. A means of removing the final product.

Here are some design ideas:

• A wire mesh bin with a hinged front panel.
• A three-sided cement block bin with an open front that will allow you to turn the pile and remove the finished compost easily.
• A circular unit made from chicken wire or snow fencing that can be opened up to collect the finished compost.
• A wooden pallet or two-by-four box with a lid and spaces for ventilation.
• A metal barrel or garbage can with holes punched in the side and the bottom removed.
• For more advanced enthusiasts, a unit with several compartments can be used to manage compost at different stages - raw materials, active piles and finished product.
• Put your unit in a level, well-drained, accessible area. If you live in a part of the country that has winter weather, make sure you can get to your composter all year round.
• Add other organic materials in layers no deeper than l5 centimeters. Cover each successive layer of organic material with about 5 centimeters of ordinary garden soil. This contains micro-organisms that will accelerate the process: A layer of soil also helps to mask any odours.
• Pour water onto the pile until it is about as moist as a wrung out sponge.
• Turn the pile once a week to mix all the materials evenly and expose them to air.
• Continue to add material as you go along. Always remember to cover new material with a layer of soil and to keep the pile moist.

If conditions are right, your compost pile will begin to heat up, eventually reaching an internal temperature of about 60-70 C. The pile will actually feel hot to the touch. As the chemical reactions-slow down, the pile will begin to cool to about 40-45 C. The decomposition process is then complete. The finished product will be a dark, rich, soil-like substance with a good earthy smell.

How to get started:

You don't have to run to the composter every time you peel a potato. Many people keep their kitchen wastes under the sink in a large plastic container with a resealable lid and a handle. When the container is full, they empty it into the compost pile. This reduces the number of trips they have to make.If you have yard waste, find a suitable area to keep the materials until you can add them to the compost pile. When you rake up the dead leaves on your lawn, store them in bags so that you can add them to the compost. File at regular intervals rather than all at once in the fall. Place bulky loose materials like twigs, woody plant cuttings and sticks at the bottom of the bin. This will let air circulate through the pile.

Helpful hints:

Be patient. Different materials will decompose at different rates but they will all break down eventually. If you want to speed things up, use smaller pieces.Leaves and grass tend to clump together when wet. To avoid this, allow grass clippings and leaves to dry out before putting them in your composter. Add small amounts at a time and mixing them with dry materials will also help.It may be easier to use two composters; one for new materials and one for ingredients that are already cooking.In warmer climates, your composter may continue to 'cook' (at a slower rate) through the winter, so you can keep adding new materials. In colder climates, keep adding materials. When the temperature rises-in spring, the process will start again.When you have enough finished compost, mix it into your soil and spread it evenly throughout your garden.

Troubleshooting:

Is compost giving-you a rotten time? Try one of these quick fixes:

Problem: Pile not heating up, not enough moisture or lack of nitrogen.
Solution: Turn the pile and moisten, Add nitrogen-rich, material like grass, leaves or manure.

Problem: Compost smells bad, not enough air or too wet.
Solution: Add nitrogen-rich,material like grass, leaves or manure.

Problem: Pile is soggy, too much wet material.
Solution: Turn the pile, mix in dry materials, turn to allow air to circulate.

Gardening with Annuals

For quick and vibrant color to your garden beds, annuals are a must. They are relatively care-free and require little more than light, water, and some decent soil.

No garden is truly complete without perennials and as any seasoned gardener will tell you, they are like potato chips; you can’t have just one. Unlike annuals that will only live for one season, perennials come back year after year and with beauties such as bee balm (bergamot) and obedient plant (physostegia), who wouldn’t want to add them to their garden repertoire.

Those that I’ve mentioned are not generally known as being finicky plants to grow, but some perennials can be. It all depends on the region and the care. It might be a good idea to research any perennials you want to invest a lot of time into starting from seed and nursing in the garden, to avoid too much disappointment. Sometimes however, trial and error is the only way to find out whether you have a love/hate relationship with any one variety, and a lot of the fun is in trying something new.

As well as being a long lived bunch, many perennials also attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds (among other birds) to the garden which is always a treat. Many–such as herbs--can be used in cooking and are even known for having therapeutic and medicinal uses. Echinacea for instance (cone flower) is sold as a immune system boosting supplement, feverfew for easing headaches, and valerian to help gain better sleep.

I’d also like to mention biennials. This group, such as foxglove and canterbury bells, will live two seasons, only blooming the second. A strange group, but their beauty is worth the work.

Planting Perennials:

• The best time to plant perennials is mid to late spring when the weather isn’t too hot, and the morning or an overcast day is less stressful on the plant.
• Contrary to popular belief, it isn’t always necessary to loosen the roots before placing the plant in the ground; this can shock the plant and make it more difficult for it to become established. If there is a great amount of potting mix in with the plant, gently loosen it from the roots and blend it in to the soil in the hole you have dug for it. This will keep the surrounding mix from drying out too quickly.
  
• Once in the ground do not mound soil up higher on the stem that its original plant line on the stem. Gently press soil down around the plant but do not pound or stomp it down.
  
• Water well immediately. It may wilt and look unhappy for several hours—even a couple of days—after planting, but it should perk up soon thereafter.

Where to Plant Perennials:

Perennials look wonderful anywhere; it’s a matter of taste. Some like a more organized approach, going by size and type. Others prefer a wilder look. Anything goes really. The only “where” that matters is when conditions come into play. Soil consistence and type, light, shelter, and so on. Plants such as hydrangeas are affected by the ph level of their soil they are planted in. Acidic soil of a ph of 5.5 or lower produces blue flowers, whereas a more alkaline soil of a ph of 6.5 and higher will produce pink flowers. A ph between 5.5 and 6.5 will produce purplish flowers, or even a marbled mix of pink and blue.
Azaleas and rhododendrons—two very prized and favored perennials—absolutely require a more acidic soil.
To determine the ph of your soil, you can purchase a kit at any garden center and testing is quite simple.Soil consistence is also important depending on what it is you want to grow. Soils too clay or too sandy simply aren’t ideal for most plants. Amendment with for both is similarly to add organic material like compost, peat moss, decomposed/mulched leaves. For clay soils, sand can be added to improve drainage. For sandy soils, the more organic material. A good soil, when squeezed in your fist, shouldn’t ball up and stay in a ball that can’t be broken apart, and shouldn’t just fall apart the way damp sand would, but ball up nicely and then fall apart easily.

When out choosing annuals for your garden or containers it is best to look for plants that aren’t in full bloom, too leggy, or too root-bound. Choose smaller bushy plants with as little damage to the foliage as possible. Any damaged areas can be pinched off.

Wait to plant until all danger of frost has passed and days are consistently warm. Space plants according to their mature size listed on the little tab found in the plant’s container. Don’t worry if they look too far apart as they will fill in very quickly with the right care. Water immediately after planting. Some plants will wilt and appear unwell after the shock of transplanting but they should perk up within a few hours.

Mulch can be spread around annuals for a cleaner look, to cut down on weeds, and to help keep the soil moist longer.

Annuals require little care to keep looking great all summer and even well into the fall. Deadheading (pinching off expired blooms) will encourage more blooms. Also, many annuals will go to seed. To keep from unwanted seed cast off, deadhead and retain the seeds for the following spring.

First things first, if you truly want to attract hummingbirds to your garden, try not to use pesticides. Hummingbirds need bugs as a part of their diet. There are other safer ways of ridding your garden of truly damaging insects. Secondly, commercial and chemical pesticides applied to plants may cause illness or even death to these tiny birds.

Incorporate as many hummingbird attracting plants in your garden as possible:

Annuals

BeardTongue
Firespike
Fuchsia
Impatiens
Jacobiana
Red Hot Poker
Salvia
Zinnia

Recipe for Sugar Syrup/Nectar:

----One part regular white sugar to four parts water.
----Boil water and dissolve sugar in.
This mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks – dispose any unused portions after that time.

NOTE: Do not use red dye or food coloring in your feeder. Do not use brown sugar, table syrup, or corn syrup in your feeder. Commercially made nectars and nectar additives are available and can be used, but the best thing really is just plain white sugar water.

CLEANING:
Sugar water spoils quickly (when it turns cloudy, it has spoiled) in the warm sun/weather, so every few days, cleaning is a must. To clean, flush the feeder well with very hot water and scrub clean. Soap—rumor has it—leaves a residue that hummers don’t approve of so rinse REALLY well. Ivory liquid dishsoap is extremely mild. Also, once every couple of weeks I sanitize the feeders with a mild bleach/water solution (1 tbsp bleach to 3 cups water). Let the feeder soak for a while and then scrub clean - make sure to remove all bleach residue.
And there you have it; all the basics for starting your own hummingbird garden. Good luck and have fun.